Twenty four kilometers (15 miles) off the West coast of Ireland lay three ancient limestone islands know as the Aran Islands. In ancient times, the Irish monks considered a visit to Inishmore (Inis Mor), the largest of the islands, to be a scared pilgrimage that ranked next to a visit to Jerusalem or Rome. Today over 200,000 people visit the island every year, they come not as pilgrims but to see the rich archaeological heritage of the islands and to experience the island culture.
Inishmore, the largest and most visited of the islands is a popular day trip from Galway. A short ferry ride gets you to the harbour at Kilronoan, one of the five smalls towns on the island. The island is approximately 14 kms (9 miles) long by about 3 kms (2 miles) wide consisting of barren limestone, small field surrounded by stone walls and archaeological ruins dating back over 4000 years. You can tour the island by min van, horse and carriage or you can rent a bicycle and do a self guided tour.
There are four preserved Celtic circular stone forts within an easy hiking distance from the main roads. The most spectacular of the forts is Dun Aonghas, a tripled walled cliff top fort that dates back to 2000 BC. Dun Aonghas is reached by walking from the visitor center up to the fort. The walk takes about ½ hour. On a clear day you can see to the mainland. Modern day pilgrims walk to the edge of the 90 m (300 foot) cliff and lay on their bellies to look over the side.
The Black Fort (Dun Dubhchathair) is more difficult to get to. You must walk up a back road and then climb over several small walls along the cliff side to reach the fort. If you are afraid of heights don’t attempt it. The Black Fort is not as well preserved as Dun Aonghas but if you have the time it is worth the visit. The entire trip takes about 2 hours.
The third fort, Dun Eochia, is located at the highest point on the island and is reached from the main upper road. It is estimated that it was built between 550 and 800 AD, likely replacing an older settlement. The fort is behind the lighthouse, which is now a folk museum. The lighthouse was built in 1818 but was too far inland to really be of any use to ships at sea. It is often referred to as Britain’s Folly.
The last fort is Dun Eoghanachata is hard to reach as you must turn off the road and trek through fields to reach the fort. The remains of a monastic settlement can be seen below the fort.
If want to see the main sights of the island, I would recommend a minivan or horse and carriage tour. They take you along the main road and stop at all the important sites along the way. You will see “The Man of Aran” cottages where the 1930’s movie was filmed, the early Christian beehive hut (Clochain na Carraige), the seven churches (Na Seacht dTeampaill), visit a 1500 year old grave yard that allegedly contains the remains over 120 saints including those of St. Edna of Oriel, the Celtic monk who brought Christianity to the island, and then drive by the seal colony. The highlight of the tour is a visit to Dun Aonghas. The minivan or horse and carriage will drop you at the interpretive center where you will have time to shop and hike up to the fort. Then it is back to the harbour with time to lunch on fish and chips or visit one of the local pubs for a beverage before the afternoon ferry leaves for Galway.
The middle island of Inishmaan (Inis Meain) is much smaller and less commercial than Inishmore. It is built on a hill and is can be easily seen on foot. There are two forts on the island, Dun Fearbhai, which is a stone fort, and Dun Chonchuir an oval fort. Both are a short distance from the road. Inishmaan was home to John Millington Synge, an Irish dramatist who lived on the island from 1899-1903. He wrote a book and several plays based on island life. He was said to write in a peasant dialect described as “synge-song”. You can visit his cottage and see where his famous plays and books were written. You can also stop at a lookout point called Synge’s Chair, where he allegedly sat frequently.
Inishmaan is known for its knitting factory where the famous Aran Island sweaters are produced today. The Aran Islands sweaters were originally hand knit from hand spun and dyed fleeces. Characterized by their interwoven cable designs patterned on religious and Celtic symbols, they were often the only way to identify the bodies of drowned islanders. Today you can purchase one of these warm stylish sweaters to take home with you.
Inishsheer (Inis Oirr) is the smallest and flattest of the islands. It is known for its summer Irish language school. A visit to the island should include a stop at the ruins of the Church of St. Kevin where pilgrims still say mass on all Saints day, a viewing of the Folk Museum’s photograph collection and a stop by O’Briens castle.
The islands are easily reached by ferry from the Galway area. You can catch the ferry in the morning, spend the day on one of the island and then return on the late afternoon ferry. Bus trips can be arranged from Galway that included the bus to/from the ferry, which is located in Rossaveal an hours drive from downtown Galway, and the ferry ride to/from the island.
All the islands offer overnight accommodation although Inishmore is the most developed and has the most amenities to offer those who which to stay for a few days. In the summer months the ferry companies porvide inter-island service so you do not have to return to the mainland to access either of the other two islands. This service is not available during the rest of the year.
A visit to the Aran Islands is an experience you will not want to miss. The islands are full of history, culture, spirituality and charm. They may appear isolated and desolate but the warmness of the islanders, the spectacular scenery, and the fascinating archeological ruins more than makes up for their remote location.
For more information:
http://www.galway.net/galwayguide/visit/aran/
http://www.visitaranislands.com/
http://www.aranislands.galway-ireland.ie/
Ferries
http://www.doolinferries.com/
http://www.arandirect.com/
http://www.aranislandferries.com/bookings.PHP?gclid=CITorfS06Y8CFRsTawodhSkLDA
Flights
http://www.aerarannislands.ie/
Where to Stay:
http://www.galway.net/galwayguide/visit/aran/acc/
